Andrew Martin, railway enthusiast and author, reflects on riding the railways for pleasure and shares his favourite routes.
Stunning vistas: Travelling for the scenery
A room with an ever-changing view. On any long-distance journey, among the commuters, you will see a few passengers who are genuinely savouring the journey. They might be small children riding the line for the first time, or pensioners noting how the passing scene has changed over the decades. Their eyes reflect the passing scenery, sharing a moment of wonder as the train carves through the landscape.A train journey can impart truly unique moments. Riding a train to Cornwall as it rolls over the Royal Albert Bridge at Plymouth, I can look down and notice that even the boats on the Tamar with the tallest masts seem miles below.
On the East Coast Mainline, I notice the view from the viaduct of Durham, where the cathedral and castle are displayed like the opened pages of an illustrated history book.
On the West Coast Main Line, I will be drawn to the drama of the hills and clouds on the climb to Shap Summit.
Fort William-to-Mallaig on the West Highland Line and the Settle and Carlisle Line usually top the polls for most-scenic routes. In both cases, special ‘luxury’ trains are available; the steam-hauled Jacobite and the diesel-hauled Northern Belle respectively.
However, there is something very moving about making the journeys on an ordinary diesel multiple unit. The train seems a lonely, intrepid thing, bravely probing its way through this mighty landscape, often with no other sign of human existence in sight.
The last time I was on the Settle-Carlisle, the moors were shrouded in fog, and my ears popped as we traversed the Ribblehead Viaduct. The whole experience was extraordinarily reminiscent of flying.
Architectural marvels: Enjoying the stations as well as the ride
The UK is home to some of the oldest and most beautiful railway stations in the world. Two stations that receive five stars from Simon Jenkins in his book Britain’s 100 Best Railway Stations are Glasgow Central and Wemyss Bay. Both are only an hour apart by train with views of the widening Clyde on the way.
These stations were redesigned in the early 20th century by the team of architect James Miller and engineer Donald Matheson, and they have flowing wooden contours and glass roofs that sparkle with light even on the rainiest days.
And while Weymss Bay is a railway terminus, a ferry trip to the faded seaside elegance of Rothesay on the Isle of Bute is hard to resist.
Breathtaking beaches and waterways
Other famously scenic routes skirt the sea. One is the Cambrian Coast Line in west Wales. At the pretty, stone-built Machynlleth Station, the train splits for Aberystwyth or Pwllheli, the latter branch being slightly more attractive.
At Aberdovey, the river Dovey, which has been widening for a while, becomes the sea; the train begins tracking the coast and the velvety green fairways of Aberdovey golf course.
In summer, the trains are full of surfers, sunbathers, and swimmers, each beach hopping and trailing sand. The highlight is the crossing of the Mawddach Estuary on the Barmouth viaduct, where the views of the hills to the right almost upstage those of the sea to the left.
I also enjoy the North Wales Line, although that’s a grittier affair, with semi-industrial scenes along the Dee estuary before the North Wales coast proper.
Further south, the journey between Exeter and Newton Abbott in South Devon is both famous for its beauty and notorious because the sea has frequently overwhelmed the sea wall.
And even further south still, the estuary of the Exe becomes the English Channel when the train reaches Dawlish Warren Station, and on a sunny day the sudden revelation of the great, glittering expanse of water can be quite dazzling.
At Dawlish itself, the line is overlooked by some handsome Victorian villas. Such as those that are available for rent are usually occupied by railfans. Meanwhile, you can spot the railfans on the beach, because they’re the ones facing inland.
The trains go by every few minutes, progressing, after Dawlish, through a series of tunnels cut into the red sandstone cliffs like – in the words of Benedict le Vay – ‘a needle through gathered cloth’. In between the tunnels are small, secret bays, usually deserted.
Charming and unexpected routes
A ride along any line under the care of a Community Rail Partnership (a group of local organisations that work together to improve their local railway) is usually a treat, since the stations often have lovingly tended flower gardens. The Cornish branch lines come to mind or (a particular favourite of mine) the Wherry Line from Norwich to Lowestoft, with views of windmills on the far horizon, like so many tiny crosses.
I enjoy some journeys that are not usually considered picturesque: Doncaster to Cleethorpes, for instance. First, you’re tracking the Aire & Calder canal; then come the rusting steelworks and freight wagons of Scunthorpe, then the Victorian Gothic of Grimsby docks before arrival at Cleethorpes station, which is very nearly on the beach.
But any train ride can become leisure travel and highly pleasurable, with a few modest ingredients: a comfortable seat, a quiet carriage and a setting sun. And perhaps most importantly, the fact you’re not stuck in a traffic jam.